Monday, March 7, 2011

A Rash On My Forehead

historical dishes: macaroni Rossini

Daniela Di
Let's start the day with a smile "historic"? If you like, I'll tell you a funny story on the star of the day: Gioacchino Rossini. I found here and is very fast. It is said that the Maestro had been persuaded to recommend tenor opera singer Enrico Tamberlich a not particularly talented. The Tamberlich felt it, but was impressed by his mediocrity. So he asked for explanations Rossini, asking the reason of his achievements, the response of the musician was " If it was good, it was recommended by itself, no? "
Back then, once again to our" Swan of Pesaro "recipe for a much more substantial of his" salad ecstatic glutton 'of the another post. Also in this case you propose again as the Master told it to two people dictated December 26, 1866: with all the specifications of pans, and cooking times. In below you will find some small indication of personal explanation.
I like the idea but the first to introduce the pot to give you another part of the musical similarities and food of our "empty stomach is the bassoon or flute in which the little grumbling discontent or envy yelps, the Instead a full stomach is the triangle of pleasure or the cymbals of joy. "
Riempiamoci the spirit of joy and then we read of his
macaroni Rossini
" To be sure you can make good macaroni, it must first be pans suitable. The dishes that I serve are from Naples and sold under the name of the lands of Mount Vesuvius.
The preparation of macaroni is divided into four parts.
1. The cooking
Cooking is one of the most important and should be given the utmost care. It begins by filling the dough into a boiling broth previously prepared in full, the stock must have been switched to filtered, and then you bake the dough on a low heat after having added some cl of cream and a hint of bitter orange.
When the macaroni has taken a transparent color for the degree of cooking, are removed immediately from the heat and drained until they contain more water is held by them before being placed in layers.
2. The preparation of the sauce.
Always in a clay pot, as is done here.
For 200 g of macaroni put it:
50 g of butter,
50 g of grated parmesan,
5 dl broth,
10 g of dried mushrooms, 2 chopped truffles
,
100 g of lean ham, chopped 1 pinch
four spices,
a bunch of herbs,
1 tomato,
1dl cream, 2 glasses of champagne
Allow to cook basso per un'ora circa; passare al colino cinese e serbare a bagnomaria.
3. La preparazione a strati
E' a questo punto che si rende necessario il tegame in terra del Vesuvio. Dopo aver leggermente ingrassato con burro chiarificato e raffreddato il tegame, vi si versa uno strato di salsa, poi uno di maccheroni, che va ricoperto da uno strato di parmigiano e di gruviera grattugiati e di burro; poi un altro strato di maccheroni che si ricopre nello stesso modo; il tutto bagnato dalla salsa; poi all'ultimo strato si aggiunge un po' di pangrattato e di burro e si mette il tegame da parte per la gratinatura.
4. La gratinatura
The hard part is to brown the dish for the moment to be eaten. "
And now my suggestions:
Now: the vegetable broth (1 carrot, a stalk of celery, onion and tomato) is left to simmer for about 1 hour, filter it will be removed some wooden spoons (I would say more than about 4 dl 5: rather long with a drop of hot water, if it were to dry out too much) to make a sauce. Ah, for those like me who do not know, the chinois strainer is made tip: trust that even a rounded is fine, as long as it meshed! In the remaining broth add 1.5 to 2 dl of cream and / or a pinch of powder bitter orange or a couple of tablespoons of juice, always bitter orange or failing that, like me, pink grapefruit.
For the sauce, the bouquet garni is not specified, but I put a bit 'of parsley, thyme and wild thyme (I know it's a strange name, but it is even called it that) that I had in my garden . As I mentioned in the previous recipe I do not have Rossini with black truffle : so I used a spoon drawn from my jar of chopped black truffle, and perhaps the taste is less strong, but the smell was felt intense and then we need to do virtue of necessity! For ham, we mean the cooked, even in a single slice for comfort. The final cooking of the macaroni was cooked in the broth making them perfect with the cream and the orange for 8 minutes.
Another observation you can keep dried mushrooms to soak too little, so then simmer for 1 hour, so there are no problems. For the amount of Parmesan and Gruyère necessary for the "construction" of the dish enough about 80 grams of a 80 and both of the other grated and I confess I did not add, between each layer, more butter, only a little piece on the surface for gilding.
The final cooking in the oven was 20 minutes at 180 degrees plus a couple of minutes alone with the grill.
practice last observation: I have preferred, given the sostanziosità plate, prepare timbale many portions, rather than a single pan and, at the cost of the Master to turn in his grave, I've done well in the mold of muffins. They came perfect without having the hassle of cutting inaccurate in the pan. You just have to wait a few minutes of warning before you turn them, because together they congeal 'and is "on" better. The sweet tooth can always eat 2: Consider that with these doses have prepared 8 timbales.
What I can not communicate, with photos, is the wonderful aroma of this dish, which really is a dish for a king: an exquisite culinary refinement. And above all, the series does not throw anything, once you've filtered your sauce, you set aside the "waste" because, by their goodness, they can be recycled easily: just chop with a knife, with two re-soften or tea spoons of cream or milk or tomato, as desired, season with salt and use them to flavor a pasta: works great
Bon appetit to all
Dani

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